Ask the Master Gardener March 2011

Q. My yard has about 3-4 inches of top soil and then turns into clay. It seems difficult for me to grow most plants, trees and flowers. Are there many varieties that can tolerate these adverse growing conditions?

A. It’s great that you are researching which plants will survive the conditions. You can meet the plants halfway by amending the soil when you plant. Turn in compost, rotted leaves, pine needles, grass clippings and other forms of organic matter to improve the soil structure and fertility. Make sure you mix the organic matter with the existing soil. If you backfill with straight compost or black dirt, you’ll create a bathtub effect.

Q. I live in an older home with established bushes and trees. They are getting a bit wild and unruly. I don’t want to use hedge shears to trim plants into tight shapes. I’d rather have a natural look. What do you suggest?

A. Late winter or early spring is considered to be the optimum time to prune most plants, since the plant’s wounds heal quickly without the threat of insect or disease infection. However, plants that bloom in early spring, such as forsythia, magnolia and crab apples, should be pruned later, after their blooms fade. These early bloomers produce their flower buds on last year’s wood, so pruning early would remove many potential blooms.

Trees that have large quantities of sap in the spring, such as maple, birch and dogwood, are not harmed by early-spring pruning but can be pruned in late spring or early summer to avoid the sap bleeding. Landscape plants should be pruned to maintain or reduce their size, to remove undesirable growth, to remove dead or damaged branches, and to rejuvenate older plants to produce more vigorous foliage, flowers, and fruits.

Q. I didn’t plant all my bulbs last fall. I stored them in my garage this winter in mesh bags. Most of them seem to be OK. Can these be used?

A. Most bulbs require 10-13 weeks of cold temperatures, about 40 F, in order to initiate flower buds. They also use the cool, fall season to initiate root formation before top growth begins. Your bulbs have not had those opportunities, but it still may be worthwhile to drop them in the ground.

Sort them out and discard any that are mushy or hollow. Plant the rest as soon as the ground is workable. Without an adequate chilling period, they will not bloom this year, but may gain strength and bloom in future years. Since the survival rate will be spotty, these bulbs will be best planted in a casual, cottage part of your landscape. Don’t count on them to form a nice thick block of color. Leave any foliage in place until it yellows so it can photosynthesize and regain strength for future years.

Things to do in March:

Prune trees and shrubs, except those that bloom early in spring, while plants are still dormant.

Plant new trees and shrubs as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. Plant bare-root plants before they leaf out.

Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins, but after soil temperatures have reached 40 F.

Remove winter coverings from roses as soon as new growth begins. Prune and fertilize as needed.

Apply superior oil spray to control scale insects and mites when tips of leaves start to protrude from buds.

Plant cool-season vegetables and flowers as soon as the ground has dried enough to work. Do NOT work the soil while it is wet; wait until it crumbles in your hand. If the soil forms a solid ball when squeezed, it’s still too wet.

Gradually harden off transplants by setting them outdoors during the daytime for about a week before planting.

Follow last fall’s soil test recommendations for fertilizer and pH adjustment. It’s not too late to test soil if you missed last year.

Start seeds of warm-season vegetables and flowers indoors; in northern and central Indiana, wait until the end of March or early April. Transplant to the garden after danger of frost is past.

Watch for blooms of early spring bulbs, such as daffodils, squill, crocus, dwarf iris and snowdrops.

Remove old asparagus and rhubarb tops, and sidedress the plants with nitrogen or manure. Plant or transplant asparagus, rhubarb and small fruit plants.

Remove winter mulch from strawberry beds as soon as new growth begins, but keep the mulch nearby to protect against frost and freezes.

Remove weak, diseased or damaged canes from raspberry plants before new growth begins. Remove old fruiting canes if not removed last year, and shorten remaining canes if necessary.

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Ask the Master Gardener February 2011

Q. Where does Chocolate come from?

A. Chocolate comes to us courtesy of the cacao plant (pronounced ca-cow), Theobroma cacao. The name Theobroma is an appropriate one as its translation is “food of the gods.” The plant is believed to have originated in the Amazon area of South America at least 4,000 years ago. Most of today’s commercial production is in eastern Brazil in South America and the Ivory Coast and other countries of Africa.

Cacoa is an evergreen tree that grows up to 40 feet in height and is hardy only in moist, tropical climates. Each cacao plant produces 60-70 pods, which mature in about six months from bloom. The pods resemble an elongated acorn squash, about 10-14 inches long.

Each pod yields 20-40 white seeds (beans), which are fermented for several days until they develop a brown color and the chocolate flavor. The beans are then dried and shipped to processing plants. Here, the beans are cleaned, roasted and ground into a thick, dark-colored paste. This paste is the base for all chocolate and cocoa products.

The hardened paste becomes baking chocolate. If the paste is heated to high pressure, cocoa butter is extracted and the remaining cake-like mass is ground into cocoa powder. To make chocolate bars or other candy, additional cocoa butter is blended with the paste, along with sweeteners. To make white chocolate, Cocoa butter is used without the paste.

Q. I’m new to gardening and with spring just around the corner I want to know everything I need to know about gardening. Can you give me a few pointers?

A. Good planning is essential to successful gardening. Start your garden off right by selecting a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Check the site for good drainage by making sure water doesn’t tend to stand after a rain or irrigation. Try to steer clear of trees and shrubs that would compete with your garden plants for water, light and nutrients. Walnut trees in particular produce a substance called juglone that is toxic to some garden plants.

Once you’ve selected your site, sketch your plans on paper. Decide how big the garden will be, what crops you want to grow and where to place them. Beginners have a tendency to go overboard, not realizing how much work lies ahead. It’s best to start out small and gradually add to your patch each year as needed.

It’s a good idea to have your soil tested as early as possible to learn how much of what kind of fertilizer to apply. Next, you should prepare a good planting bed, but make sure the soil has dried sufficiently before you work it. Working wet soil will damage the soil’s structure. Squeeze a handful of soil, and if it crumbles away easily, it’s ready. If it sticks together in a muddy ball, you’d better hold off. When it’s ready, work the soil at least 6 inches deep.

Most seed packages will list planting directions such as depth and spacing. When setting out transplants, be sure to dig a hole larger than the soil ball of the plant to aid root establishment. Most transplants are sold in containers. If roots are growing out of the bottom of the pot, it’s helpful to tear or tease the roots to allow for easier root penetration. Transplants dry out and wilt rapidly, so be sure to get those transplants watered thoroughly as soon as possible.

And then there are always weeds, insects and diseases to battle. There are numerous cultural types of controls and preventative measures along with chemicals. No one chemical will control all problems on all crops, so you’ll need to identify your problem correctly and then choose the proper control. A pesticide is not necessarily always the best method.

Remember, your county extension office will always be willing to help with any questions you might have.

Things to do in February:

Don’t wait for the groundhog to tell you spring is on the way. Many of the tasks this month will give you a running start when temperatures warm and the plants begin to emerge.

1. Cut branches of forsythia, pussy willow, crabapple, quince, honeysuckle and other early spring-flowering plants to force into bloom indoors. Place the branches in warm water, and set them in a cool location.

2. Prune landscape plants, except early spring bloomers, which should be pruned after flowers fade. Birches, maples, dogwoods and other heavy sap bleeders can be pruned in early summer to avoid the sap flow, although bleeding is not harmful to the tree.

3. Fruit trees also should be pruned now.

4. Get out your catalogs and visit your favorite online garden stores because it’s time to start placing plant and seed orders for spring.

5. Prepare or repair lawn and garden tools for the upcoming season.

6. Test the germination rate of seeds you saved from last year. Place approximately 10 seeds of the same variety on a damp paper towel. Roll up the paper towel and put it in a plastic bag – do not seal the bag. Keep the bag in a warm area. Check the seeds daily and keep the paper towel moist. After 2 or 3 days count the number of seeds that have sprouted. This will give you a pretty good idea of how the seeds will do in the garden. If half the test group germinated, then it is likely that half of the rest of the seeds will grow.

7. Get a jump start on spring. Check your seed packets to find out how long it takes the different varieties to sprout. Mark the last frost date for your area on the calendar and count back the number of weeks needed for sprouting. This is the date you should sow your seeds indoors.

8. Don’t fret over emerging spring flowering bulbs such as tulips and daffodils. The foliage contains an “antifreeze” that will protect the plants from cold. If the plant blooms, cut the flowers to enjoy indoors before freezing temperatures return.

Ask the Master Gardener January 2011

Q. How many different flowering crabapple trees are there? Can I start a tree from one of the apples off the tree? If so, how? How can I get a seed from each kind of tree? And will any flowering crabapple grow in my area?

A. Many crabapple cultivars have been developed over the years, but many have fallen from favor due to a multitude of problems. The best crabapples are resistant to most insects and diseases and have attractive flowers, fruits and form. This rules out many cultivars. Currently, the International Ornamental Crabapple Society evaluates over 60 crabs. For information about crabapples contact your local county extension office or at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1029.html.

Most crabapples are grafted onto rootstocks of other crabapples so, unless you are interested in grafting, they cannot be reproduced from seed or simple cuttings.
Different crabapples have varying hardiness tolerances. Some will be hardy in your area but others may not. Research this information before you add them to your landscape.

Q. I have a new small greenhouse that I want to use to winter over plants and to start new ones from seed in the spring. What can I do to make sure I don’t have the problem of whiteflies? What is the best method to rid my greenhouse of these pests? Is there a prevention I should implement? Are there certain plants that attract whiteflies?

A. Whiteflies remove plant fluids with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. They feed primarily on leaves, which may result in plant stunting and leaf distortion. Whiteflies produce a clear, sticky liquid called honeydew. Honeydew serves as a medium for growth of black, sooty mold fungi. These unsightly fungi can reduce photosynthesis and the plant’s appearance.

Whiteflies come in through openings in the greenhouse, or on new plants that you bring into the greenhouse. Inspect each plant for all whitefly life stages, including eggs. Look especially on the undersides of the leaves. First determine if you have whiteflies, information on common pests is available at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2151.html.

You may apply contact insecticides if you notice whiteflies. Be sure to thoroughly cover leaf undersides. Appropriate insecticides, including insectidal soap, horticultural oils and others.

Q. The deer have been stripping off the branches and bark of small Norway spruce trees and other trees, particularly my small, scented Linden tree. Sometimes, the bark is missing in 1- to 2-foot-long sections, or even all the way around the tree.

A. White tail deer can cause damage by stripping bark or eating branches. You can tell their damage from that of a rabbit or other rodent by the edges of the damaged area. Deer do not have front incisors and leave a ragged, torn edge, while rabbits and other rodents leave a clean edge. Also, the damage inflicted by deer is often too far from the ground to incriminate any other animal.

For the future, use plastic tree wrap or woven-wire cylinders to protect young trees from deer and rabbits. Four-foot woven-wire cylinders can also keep deer from rubbing tree trunks with their antlers. The following link has a lot of good information concerning deer: http://ohioline.osu.edu/w-fact/pdf/0005.pdf.

What things do I need to do in January?

Keep holiday poinsettias and other plants near a bright window. Water as top of soil becomes dry.

Increase humidity around houseplants by grouping plants together, placing them on a pebble-water tray or running a humidifier.

Check stored produce and tender flower bulbs and roots for rot, shriveling or excess moisture. Remove and discard damaged material.

Check young trees for rodent injury on lower trunks. Prevent injury with hardware cloth or protective collars.

Keep road and sidewalk salt away from plants. Construct a screen of burlap, if necessary, to keep salt spray off plants.

“Leaf” through nursery catalogs and make plans for landscape and home orchard additions. Order plants early for best selection.

Early spring-flowering trees and shrubs, such as forsythia, crabapple, flowering quince, flowering dogwood and honeysuckle, can be forced for early indoor blooms by placing cut branches in water in a warm location.

Send for seed catalogs for the garden.

Sketch your garden plans on paper, including what to grow, spacing, arrangement and number of plants needed.

Wood ashes from the fireplace can be spread in the garden, but don’t overdo it. Wood ashes increase soil pH, and excess application can make some nutrients unavailable for plant uptake. Have soil tested to be certain of the pH before adding wood ash.

- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer

Ask the Master Gardener December 2010

Q. During this past summer’s drought, crabgrass took over much of my yard. Is there any effective, cheap way now to get rid of it, or has it already seeded itself for the spring? Now that it’s almost winter and it has turned brown, would going out and manually pulling it up by the root do any good? What options do you recommend?

A. Crabgrass is an annual plant, meaning it only lives for one growing season. The plants flower and produce seed in July, then die at first frost. So there is not much point in pulling the plants out now. Unfortunately, crabgrass produces a lot of seed in summer that will then germinate next spring. Crabgrass is a really tough weed to completely eradicate, and it thrives in poor, sparse turf.

The best strategy is to prevent the crabgrass as much as possible. Good lawn care practices, including appropriate fertilizing, watering and mowing, will help the turf grass be more competitive. A pre-emergence herbicide applied in early spring before the crabgrass germinates can substantially reduce the population next season, you would need to apply by early April most years.

Q, My Concord grapes used to get ripe all at the same time. Now, the last two years, they don’t. They all get ripe so unevenly; some are green, some are ripe and some are over ripe or starting to rot on the same bunch of grapes. What is my problem?

A. Some grape-growers have experienced uneven ripening this year, particularly with their Concord grapes, and this seems to be an issue when the weather has been exceptionally warm. Some of the berries in the cluster remain sour, hard and green while others develop the purple color and soften during the ripening process. The green berries will be full-sized, but will not be sweet. For some reason, those berries never go through the increase in sugar and decrease in acids that commonly occurs during fruit ripening. It is not clearly understood why this phenomenon occurs, but hot weather is thought to be partly responsible. So let’s hope for better weather next year.

Things to do in December:

Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.

Extend the lives of holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, by placing them in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm or cold drafts.

Houseplants may not receive adequate light because days are short and gloomy. Move plants closer to windows, but avoid placing foliage against cold glass panes. Artificial lighting may be helpful. Because growth slows or stops in winter months, most plants will require less water and little, if any, fertilizer.

If you are forcing bulbs for the holidays, bring them into warmer temperatures after they have been sufficiently pre-cooled. Bulbs require a chilling period of about 10 to 12 weeks at 40 degrees F to initiate flower buds and establish root growth. Pre-cooled bulbs are available from many garden suppliers if you did not get yours cooled in time. Then, provide two to four weeks of warm temperature (60 degrees F), bright light and moderately moist soil to bring on flowers.

When shopping for a Christmas tree, check for green, flexible, firmly held needles and a sticky trunk base — both indicators of freshness. Make a fresh cut, and keep the cut end under water at all times.

Evergreens, except pines and spruce, can be trimmed now for a fresh supply of holiday greenery.

Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees, such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.

Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.

Protect broadleaves, evergreens or other tender landscape plants from excessive drying (desiccation) by winter sun and wind. Canvas, burlap or polyethylene plastic screens to the south and west protect the plants. Similarly, shield plants from salt spray on the street side.

Provide winter protection for roses by mounding soil approximately 12 inches high to insulate the graft union, after plants are dormant and temperatures are cold. Additional organic mulch, such as straw compost or chopped leaves, can be placed on top.

To protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulbs, mulch with straw, chopped leaves or other organic material after plants become dormant.

Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and out of the reach of children, pets and unsuspecting adults.

Once the plants are completely dormant and temperatures are consistently below freezing, then the winter mulch can be applied to protect strawberries and other tender perennials. In most cases, 2-4 inches of organic material, such as straw, pine needles, hay or bark chips, will provide adequate protection.

Check produce and tender bulbs in storage, and discard any that show signs of decay, such as mold or softening. Shriveling indicates insufficient relative humidity.

Clean up dead plant materials, synthetic mulch and other debris in the vegetable garden, as well as in the flowerbeds, rose beds and orchards.

Order seed catalogs, and make notes for next year’s garden.

- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer

Ask the Master Gardener November 2010

Q. The last 10 years or so have been hard on our Red Oaks, some of which are surely over 100 years old. The problem is that some are perfectly normal one year and dying the next. They green up normally, drop their leaves prematurely and never come back. Is there anything that can be done? Some are extremely large and others smaller. I’m worried that in a few years, there will be no more trees left.

A. There are a number of diseases, insect pests and environmental stresses, or perhaps a combination of factors, that could be the culprit. Once a tree is under stress, other opportunistic organisms can move in. Oak wilt, oak decline and borers are just a few possibilities. And there are quite a number of disorders — sometimes referred to as “people pressure” — that can cause trees to decline: planting too deep or too shallow and girdling of the trunk by roots, twine or wire, etc. If you have a tree that is currently presenting symptoms, you might consider submitting a sample to your local extension office diagnostic lab.

Q. My husband and I read with great interest your reply to the question regarding the white pine and the fact that they are not very adapted to our climate. We started with 12 in the year of 2000. They have been replaced several times and now, based on their height, only five of the original group are left. We just lost two more that now need to be replaced. Please suggest another tree that would blend with the 10 still living.

A. While no species is 100 percent trouble-free, some of the spruce and fir species are less problematic than most pines. You’ll need to assess your planting site and match as best you can a species that will adapt. If the site is plagued by poor soil drainage, it is unlikely that any evergreen species will do well, except perhaps bald cypress (Taxodium distichum); however, it drops all of its needles each winter, so would not be evergreen. But if it is an average site, some of the following species might be considered.
White Spruce (Picea glauca)
Norway Spruce (Picea abies)
Colorado Spruce (Picea pungens)
Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
Fir, White (Abies concolor)
Hemlock, Canada (Tsuga Canadensis)

Q. I had a yellow delicious apple tree die this spring. It had a bulge in the trunk. What is this? Is there anything I can do to stop it or prevent it in my other trees? I am concerned that I will lose all my trees.

A. Unfortunately, I can’t be certain as to what killed the tree from just the appearance of the trunk. But it does look like a large graft union where several scions were grafted to a common trunk, sometimes sold as three-in-one or five-in-one trees. Because many fruit trees require more than one cultivar to provide pollination for fruit production, one strategy was to graft two or more cultivars onto a rootstock. Unfortunately, the graft union of those multi-cultivar trees is often weak-wooded and prone to dieback. If that’s the case, there’s no need to worry about the problem “spreading” to other trees. But most fruit trees are prone to quite a number of disease and insect problems, so it is still wise to keep the trees under close observation, if you notice any symptoms, contact your local County Extension for diagnostic assistance .

Things to do in November:

As houseplant growth slows, apply less fertilizer and water. If pants are dropping many leaves, move them closer to sunny exposures, such as west- and south-facing windows. Artificial lights may be needed to supplement particularly dark rooms.

Pot spring-flowering bulbs with tips exposed to force into bloom indoors. Moisten soil and refrigerate 10 to 13 weeks. Transfer to a cool, sunny location, and allow an additional three to four weeks for blooming.

Continue dark treatment for poinsettias by keeping them in complete darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. daily until early December or until red bracts begin to show.

Water landscape plants if rainfall continues to be scarce. Apply approximately 1 inch of water every 7-10 days where possible. Mulch to conserve moisture.

Prevent rabbit and rodent feeding damage by erecting physical barriers, such as metal mesh (one-quarter-inch) hardware cloth. Pull mulch a few inches away from the trunk, as the mulch provides a warm winter home for rodents. Chemical repellents also are available, but their effectiveness is temporary and not foolproof.

Prevent frost cracking (or sunscald) by wrapping trunks with commercial tree wrap or painting the south- and southwest-facing sides of the trunk with white latex outdoor paint. Young, thin-barked trees, such as maples and many fruit trees, are especially susceptible. Be sure to remove the tree wrap by early spring to prevent overheating of the bark.

Remove dead, diseased or damaged branches.

Protect the graft union on rose bushes by mounding soil around the plants and adding mulch on top. Wait until several killing frosts have occurred so plants will be dormant when covered. Plants covered too early may be smothered.

If you are planning to order a “live” Christmas tree, prepare its planting hole before the soil freezes. Mulch the area heavily to prevent freezing, or dig the hole and put fill in a protected, nonfreezing area, such as a garage or basement.

Clean up and discard fallen leaves and fruits around fruit plants to reduce disease carryover.

Continue mowing lawn as needed. As tree leaves fall, run them through your mower (remove bagger), allowing the shredded leaves to remain on the lawn. Be sure to mow only when grass and leaves are dry.

An early November application of fertilizer can help boost early spring recovery. If rainfall returns, or if irrigation is available, apply one-half to 1 pound actual nitrogen, in either water-soluble or slow-release form, per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Use only slow-release formulations on dry, non-irrigated lawns.

If frost hasn’t taken your garden yet, continue harvesting.

Harvest mature, green tomatoes before frost and ripen indoors in the dark. Store at 55-70 F; the warmer the temperatures, the faster they ripen.

Harvest root crops and store in a cold (32 F), humid location. Use perforated plastic bags as an easy way to increase humidity.

Remove plant debris, both crop and weed, from the garden and discard or compost. This will help reduce the carryover of diseases, insects and weeds to next year’s garden.

Fall tilling, except in erosion-prone areas, helps improve soil structure and usually leads to soils warming and drying faster in the spring, thus allowing crops to be planted earlier.

Apply mulch to strawberries to prevent winter injury or death to their crowns. Wait until temperatures have hit 20 F to be sure plants are dormant. If mulch is applied too soon, the plant’s crown can rot.

Dig and store tender flowering bulbs and keep in a protected location.

Complete planting of spring-flowering bulbs.

- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer

12 September, 2010 14:24

Ask the Master Gardener September 2010

Q. We have a raised bed that is about 7 inches deep. The soil is dark-colored and was excavated from the foot of a slope in a woods near a graveled road. I also added several bags of muck topsoil.

I have tried to grow several vegetables, but the stems of all are very elongated. Radishes were about 18 inches tall with very small underground parts. Lettuce was about 12 inches tall with small leaves. Tomato vines are about 6 feet tall with thin lateral branches about 5 to 8 inches apart. A few tomatoes have developed near the ends of the vines. I have tied the vines to trellis.

I have fertilized the tomatoes but not excessively. I have watered when needed. Other flowers, grass and shrubs growing nearby on the natural soil, which is shallow to clay, seem to grow normally. What could be causing this strange growth pattern?

A. Since you are getting a lot of presumably healthy foliage growth but poor root and fruit development, I would suspect low potassium and/or phosphorus. If you have not yet had the soil tested for nutrient status that should be your next step.

Q. What is the best way to get rid of strawberry plants? They have not produced anything for years. We have tried pulling them out, rototilling, etc., but they keep coming back. The patch is about 6-foot x 2-foot in size.

A. It is amazing how vigorous plants can be when we want to get rid of them! A non-selective systemic herbicide such as glyphosate is generally pretty effective, especially when applied to the green foliage in late summer or early fall, as there is good translocation of the product to the roots at that time. If you want to avoid using herbicide, you could also try covering the area with sheets of plastic to heat the plants and soil and hopefully kill the strawberry plants for good. Clear plastic will allow you to monitor the progress, but black plastic can also be used. It is hard to know how long to leave the plastic in place. The hot summer weather would have been a good time to do this, but there should still be enough time yet this fall to generate sufficient heat.

Q. We have two peach trees that have so many peaches each year that the limbs break down. The peaches aren’t much bigger than golf balls. I was wondering what would be a good rule of thumb as to thinning them? My husband says to let Mother Nature do it, but I think she needs help since they are so little.

A. You win this round! Heavy fruit loads not only result in smaller, less-quality fruit but, as you’ve experienced, the weight can cause the limbs to break. Mother Nature will do some thinning, but generally not enough in a good fruiting year. Most fruit trees have at least two waves of fruit drop. The first occurs shortly after bloom, resulting from lack of or incomplete pollination. The second drop occurs three to four weeks later and is usually bigger and more dramatic because the fruits have developed to a larger size, usually one-half to 1 inch in diameter. This second drop is called “June drop” (because it usually occurs in early June). Competition among the fruits for water and nutrients is thought to be the cause of June drop. Fruits that contain the fewest or weakest seeds are usually the first to drop.

Although June drop may appear to be devastating, many trees do not shed enough fruit naturally for good production of the remaining fruit. For best quality, some hand thinning is recommended before the fruit is halfway to maturity. Peaches should be thinned to about 4 to 5 inches between fruit. If you simply cannot bring yourself to remove the excess fruit, be prepared to prop up heavily loaded branches.

Q. I have been harvesting seeds from various roadside plants to grow next spring. Should I be leaving them outside to experience the climate change and so to better ensure success in growing them?

A. The many species of plants in our climate vary in their requirements for germination. Some will bear dormant seed that needs to go through some physiological maturation before they will be able to germinate. Others may have a hard seed coat that needs to be softened or abraded to permit germination.

The most common type of dormancy is overcome by moist-chilling, also called stratification. In nature, seeds are stratified as they lay in cold, moist soil over winter, but they may never actually germinate. The seeds may become buried too deep, damaged by insects and animals, or become excessively dry or wet. Gardeners can stratify seeds in a more controlled manner by placing the seeds in moist packing material, such as peat moss, vermiculite or sand. The refrigerator is just about the right temperature to provide the chilling. Although the length of the chilling period varies with the plant species, most seeds are adequately stratified for three to four months at 35-40 F.

Things to do in September:

Prepare storage areas for overwintering tender flower bulbs and garden produce.

Thanksgiving (or Christmas) cactus can be forced into bloom for the Thanksgiving holidays. Provide 15 hours of complete darkness each day, for instance, from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., for approximately eight weeks. Keep temperature at about 60 to 65F. Temperatures of 55F will cause flower buds to set without dark treatment.

Dig and repot herbs, or take cuttings, for growing indoors over winter.

Store leftover garden seed in a cool, dry place. A sealable jar with a layer of silica gel or powdered milk in the bottom works well.

Bring houseplants moved outside for summer indoors before night temperatures fall below 55F. Gradually decrease light to acclimate the plants and help reduce leaf drop. Check and control insects and diseases before putting these plants near other houseplants.

Poinsettias saved from last year can be reflowered for this year’s holiday by providing complete darkness for 15 hours daily from about Oct. 1 until about Dec. 10.

Fall is a good time to plant many container-grown or balled-and-burlapped nursery stock. Prepare a good-sized hole, plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery and water thoroughly. Mulching will help protect against large fluctuations in soil temperature and moisture. Be sure to stake or guy-wire tall plants to protect them from strong winds. Wrap tree trunks to protect against frost cracks or animal damage.

Do not be alarmed if your evergreens, particularly white pine and arborvitae, drop some older needles. All evergreens shed needles at some time, but not all at once as deciduous plants do.

Harvest apples, pears, grapes, and everbearing strawberries and raspberries. For most fruits, flavor is the best indicator of ripeness, although color change also can be a good indicator. However, pears are best ripened off the tree, and grapes change color long before they are fully flavored, so sample the fruit to be sure.

Remove raspberry canes after they bear fruit.

Clean up fallen fruits, twigs and leaves around apple (including crabapple) and other fruit trees to reduce disease and insect carryover.

To promote the lawn’s recovery from summer stress, apply high-nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of 1 pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.

Reseed bare spots or new lawns using a good-quality seed mixture.

Early fall is a good time to apply broadleaf weed killers. Be sure to follow all label directions, and choose a calm day to prevent spray drift.

Dig onions and garlic after tops fall over naturally and necks begin to dry.

Plant radishes, green onion sets, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest. Thin fall crops such as lettuce and carrots that were planted earlier.

Harvest crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons and sweet potatoes before frost, or cover plants with blankets, newspaper, etc., (but not plastic) to protect them from light frost.

Mature green tomatoes can be ripened indoors. Individually wrap fruits in newspaper, or leave them on the vine, pulling the entire plant out of the garden. Store in a cool location — about 55F to 60F.

Harvest winter squash when mature (skin is tough) with deep, solid color, but before hard frost. Some cultivars will show an orange blush when mature.

Plant, transplant or divide peonies, daylilies, iris and phlox.

Save plants such as coleus, wax begonias, impatiens or fuchsia for indoor growing over winter. Dig plants and cut them back about halfway, or take cuttings of shoot tips, and root them in moist vermiculite, soil mix or perlite.

Watch for garden chrysanthemums to bloom as days grow shorter. Some may have bloomed earlier this summer, which will decrease the number of fall blooms.

Plant spring-flowering bulbs beginning in late September. Planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout top growth before winter. However, allow at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes for good root formation.

Dig tender bulbs, such as cannas, caladiums, tuberous begonias and gladiolus, before frost. Allow to air dry, and store in dry peat moss or vermiculite.

Cut flowers, such as strawflower, statice, baby’s breath and celosia, for drying, and hang upside down in a dry, well-ventilated area.

- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer

Master Gardener Training Course Available for Fall, 2010

Enrollment is underway for the next Master Training Course conducted by Ohio State University Extension. Master Gardeners must attend 50 hours of training and provide 50 hours of volunteer service to the community as volunteer educators. Master Gardener training will begin on September 20, 2010. Training will be held each Monday and Wednesday from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. through November 17, 2010. The classes will be held at the Microtel Inn & Suites in Delphos, Ohio.

Classes will cover topics such as: Basic Botany, Soil Science, Fruits and Vegetables, Diagnostics, Herbs, Annuals and Perennials, Trees and Shrubs, Entomology, Houseplants, Landscape Maintenance, Plant Pathology, and Pesticide Safety and Use.

Master Gardeners are gardening enthusiasts who work together with The Ohio State University Extension to provide such services to their communities as answering gardening questions, beautifying the community, developing community or demonstration gardens, and other horticultural activities. No prior knowledge of gardening or horticulture is required to enroll in the Master Gardener training course.

In order to enroll in the Master Gardener training course, participants need to fill out the form at kleinschmidt.5 or 419-203-5967.

Ask the Master Gardener August 2010

Q. We have over 350 pine trees around us. We are losing 1 or 2 every year. They turn reddish brown and die. They have all their needles; they just die. Is there anything I can do to stop this? We spray for bugs every year, mostly for bagworms.

A. There are many different species of pine, each susceptible to a number of different diseases, insect pests, and environmental stresses that can lead to decline and eventual tree death. White pine (Pinus strobus) in particular is quite prone to relatively sudden death. This syndrome is so common that it is actually been given the name “White Pine Decline” by plant pathologists.

The initial signs that the tree is in trouble can be a bit subtle; typically the tree owner will report that the tree just suddenly died, almost overnight. But if you look closely, the initial symptoms of decline include paler green, perhaps even yellowish, needles that are a bit shorter than in previous years’ growth. The more recent years of twig growth are likely shorter than in the past. As summer heat and drought stress come on, the needles turn brown and the tree dies.

White Pine Decline is thought to be the result of a combination of factors, but the primary culprit is that the trees just are not well adapted to our soils and climate, despite the fact that they can put on relatively healthy, fast growth for their 10 ten years or so. They prefer light, well-drained soil and moderate temperatures. White pine does not tolerate wet feet, drought, high pH or extreme heat, all of which are common in Indiana.

In many cases, the pines are planted too close together when they are young trees so they may end up competing with one another, in addition to all the other stresses. If there is enough space to warrant replacing the trees, it is best to choose a better-adapted species rather than repeat with white pine.

Q. I have four Indiana Tulip trees. I got them expecting flowers. Now that they are quite large, I was told they never flower; they are just named that for the shape of the leaves. To my surprise, one tree had flowers shaped like tulips. They were green and yellow – and beautiful. Enclosed is a photo of one of the flowers. Can you tell me a little about this tree?

A. Also known as tulip poplar, tulipwood, yellow poplar and canoewood, the tuliptree is known botanically as Liriodendron tulipifera. Contrary to your being told that tuliptree never flowers, this tree was actually proclaimed the state flower of Indiana in 1923! It was then re-proclaimed the state tree of Indiana in 1931 and remains so today.

Tuliptree’s rather-interesting yellow blossoms do remind you of tulips. However, they often go unnoticed until they drop from the tree. This is due to being held upright and high on the limbs of tall, mature trees. As some of the common names suggest, the lumber was used for canoes, log cabins and furniture.

Native to most of the eastern half of the United States, the tuliptree prefers rich, moist, well-drained, loamy soil. The tuliptree can reach as tall as 190 feet where it is allowed to thrive, but it is more likely to reach 70 feet in height as a mature landscape specimen.

Q. I have a trumpet vine (orange) planted 5 years ago in full sun, good soil. It has never bloomed. Why?

A. Although trumpet vine (trumpet creeper) is quite a vigorous vine, it can be a bit fussy when it comes to flowering. I get as many questions on how to kill this rampant vine as I do about why it won’t bloom. The plant thrives in infertile soil; it seems the best flowering specimens are those that are neglected and never fertilized or watered. Fertilizer applied to the planting bed or even to surrounding lawns could cause the vine to expend its resources producing massive foliage at the expense of flowers.

The plant flowers on new season’s growth so late spring or early summer pruning would remove the flower buds (winter or early spring pruning before new growth would be fine). Another possibility is that your plant was raised from seed and is still in a juvenile stage of development. It is not unusual for seedling plants to take 10 years or longer to become mature enough to flower.

Things to do in August:

Check trees and shrubs that have been planted in recent years for girdling damage by guy wires, burlap or ropes.

Don’t fertilize woody plants now. It stimulates late growth that will not have time to harden off properly before winter.

Hand-prune and destroy bagworms, fall webworms and tent caterpillars.

Pears are best ripened off the tree, so do not wait for the fruit to turn yellowish on the tree. Harvest pears when color of fruit changes–usually from a dark green to a lighter green–and when the fruit is easily twisted and removed from the spur.

Prune out and destroy the raspberry and blackberry canes that bore fruits this year. They will not produce fruit again next year, but they may harbor insect and disease organisms.

If weather turns dry, keep newly established plants well watered. New plants should receive 1 to 1.5 inches of water every week to 10 days.

Begin seeding new lawns or bare spots in established lawns in mid-August through mid-September.

Keep the garden well watered during dry weather and free of weeds, insects and disease.

Complete fall garden planting by direct-seeding carrots, beets, kohlrabi, kale and snap beans early this month. Lettuce, spinach, radishes and green onions can be planted later in August and early September. Don’t forget to thin seedlings to appropriate spacing as needed.

Harvest onions after the tops yellow and fall, then cure them in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. The necks should be free of moisture when fully cured in about a week’s time.

Harvest potatoes after the tops yellow and die. Potatoes also need to be cured before storage.

Pick beans, tomatoes, peppers and squash often to encourage further production.

Harvest watermelon when several factors indicate ripeness–the underside ground spot turns from whitish to creamy yellow; the tendril closest to the melon turns brown and shrivels; the rind loses its gloss and appears dull; and the melon produces a dull thud rather than a ringing sound when thumped.

Harvest sweet corn when kernels are plump and ooze a milky juice when punctured with your fingernail. If the liquid is watery, you’re too early; if the kernels are doughy, you’re too late.

Keep faded flowers pinched off bedding plants to promote further flowering and improve plant appearance.

Spade or till soil for fall bulb planting, and add a moderate amount of fertilizer.

- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer

Ask the Master Gardener July 2010

Q. We have black raspberries and would like to move them. When and what type of prep do I need to do to the ground for them? They have been there for over 50 years and I would like to keep them; they are not as many as there were and I need some help.

A. Moving a 50-year-old planting of any species is likely to be a formidable, if not unwise, task. However, the good news is that black raspberries are easily propagated by tip layering, and, in fact, that is something they do quite naturally on their own. To tip layer, dig a small hole several inches deep, then insert the tip of a current season’s shoot or cane and fill around it with soil. The tip will soon grow upward, while the bend of the stem that stays in the soil will grow roots. In early spring, you can sever the newly rooted plant from the original cane and transplant to the new location.

Q. I have a plum tree that has much fruit growing on it and then all the fruit prematurely drops off. Also, the graft was planted and has rooted, sending out shoots of growth so that it looks like two trees in one. Is there anything I can do to rescue this tree?

A. Most plums require two compatible cultivars for cross-pollination. When compatible pollen is not available, the ovaries of the flowers, which appear as small fruits, will abort and fall from the tree. It sounds like perhaps your tree was planted a bit too deep if the grafted portion is rooting. But I wonder if you mean that the rootstock is sending out shoots? In fruit trees, a particular cultivar known for desirable fruiting traits is typically grafted to a different cultivar or seedling rootstock in order to gain winter hardiness, disease resistance and/or dwarfing of the overall tree size. So you want to be sure that the grafted top produces only shoot growth, and that the rootstock only produces root growth. If the rootstock is sending up shoots (called suckers), they are usually quite vigorous and can quickly take over the planting if left unchecked. Remove these shoots completely back to the ground. If the graft is planting so deeply that the top is able to root, it is more difficult to address. If at all feasible, you could dig up the tree and replant at a more appropriate depth, or perhaps excavate near the trunk carefully and cut the roots that are growing from above the graft.

Things to do in July:

Keep newly established plants watered during dry weather. Allow water to penetrate deeply into soil rather than sprinkling frequently and lightly.

Apply mulch around young plants to help conserve soil moisture and control weeds.

Do not plant bare-root or ball-and-burlap stock at this time of year. Container-grown plants still may be planted, but only if you can keep them well watered.

Continue a fruit tree spray program to keep diseases and insects under control.

Remove water sprouts (sprouts from the trunk) and suckers (sprouts from the roots) from fruit trees.

Prop up fruit tree branches that are heavily loaded with fruit.

Pinch off faded rose blossoms. Continue rose spray program to control insects and diseases.

When watering lawns, apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water in a single application per week. Frequent, light sprinklings will encourage roots to stay shallow, making them more susceptible to drought.

Mow grass one-half inch higher than usual during the dry, summer months to help conserve soil moisture.

Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts to transplant later for a fall harvest. Harvest crops such as tomatoes, squash, okra, peppers, beans and cucumbers frequently to encourage further production.

Complete succession planting of bush beans and sweet corn.

Harvest summer squash while small and tender for best quality.

Standard sweet corn is at its peak for only a day or so. The supersweet corn maintains its peak quality for a longer period. Harvest when silks begin to dry and kernels exude a milky, rather than watery or doughy, juice when punctured.

Broccoli will form edible side shoots after the main head is removed.

Make sure potato tubers, carrot shoulders and onion bulbs are covered with soil to prevent development of green color and off flavors. Applying a layer of mulch will help keep them covered.

Allow blossoms on newly planted everbearing strawberry plants to develop for a fall crop.

July is a good time to fertilize strawberries with .5 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row.

Harvest raspberries when fully colored and easily separated from stem. After harvest is complete, prune out the fruiting canes to make room for new growth.

Remove faded blossoms from annual and perennial flowers to prevent seed formation.

Condition flowers cut from the garden for arranging by removing lower leaves, placing cut stem ends in warm water and storing overnight in a cool location.

The foliage of spring-flowering bulbs can be removed safely after it fades. This also is a good time to lift the bulbs for transplanting or propagation.

Ask the Master Gardener June 2010

Q. Some years our potatoes and beets have a pitting or scabbing on the surface. It makes them very unappealing to want to eat them. I think they are OK on the inside. What causes this?

A. While it is difficult to diagnose with certainty without seeing samples, there is a disease commonly called potato scab that affects both potatoes and beets. Other root crops, such as radish, rutabaga, turnip, carrot and parsnips, are also affected.

The disease causes irregularly shaped, raised scabs or cork-like blemishes on the surface on the outer surface and, as you’ve suggested, you can peel away the affected portion. Scab is caused by a soilborne microorganism called Streptomyces scabies. The pathogen is usually initially introduced into uninfested soils by infected seed potato pieces. This is why it is so important to use certified disease-free seed potatoes to start your crop. Once the disease is established in an area, the scab pathogen will survive indefinitely on infested crop residue in the soil.

Unlike most other diseases, potato scab is worse in dry soil, so maintaining adequate soil moisture can reduce infection. Dry soil and a soil pH of 5.5-7.5 favor scab infection. Maintenance of adequate soil moisture during tuber set and reducing soil pH to 5.2 or below will reduce the severity of infection. Use acid-forming sources of fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate, and avoid alkaline-forming sources, such as fresh barnyard manure, calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. Rotating the garden out of susceptible crops for 3-4 years will also help reduce the source of inoculum.

Q. We have two beautiful young red oak trees, each about 15 feet tall. I observed unusual “growths” on one; a large sphere is attached to the leaves and a smaller sphere was attached to a branch. Can you identify?

A. Oak trees have an amazing array of odd formations called galls that grow on the leaves and/or twigs called galls. Leaf galls are usually more of a cosmetic problem rather than a health crisis. The galls themselves are mostly made up of plant tissue, usually as an attempt to recover from insect or disease injury. Galls can be quite small, just a fraction of an inch, or can be as large as several inches long, depending on the plant and cause of injury. Some of the most common landscape plants that develop galls include oaks, maples, hackberries and roses.

Most galls occur on leaf tissue and are caused by insects. Adult insects lay eggs inside the leaf tissue, and either the adult or the developing young insects secretes a growth stimulating substance. Each insect causes a very characteristic gall. Most leaf galls are nothing to be concerned about from a plant health standpoint, although they may be unsightly. However, once the gall appears, the look of the current growth cannot be remedied.

Pruning out affected growth is about all that can be done once the galls appear. Pesticides to prevent insects or diseases from attacking the plants must be applied before injury occurs and the growth stimulating substances occur. For leaf gall-forming insects, insecticides must be applied during the brief week-or-so period that leaves unfold and fully expand in spring. Unfortunately, other pest cycles are less understood, and chemical controls may prove inadequate. And spraying large mature trees is not practical or advisable.

Fortunately, most gall-causers are host-specific, meaning that they each have a preferred plant species. So galls that occur on oak trees, for instance, will not spread to other types of plants in the yard.

Things to do in June:

1. Houseplants can be moved outdoors to a shady location, but pay close attention to their watering needs.

2. Cut garden flowers for indoor beauty. Recut the stems again just before placing in water. Add a floral preservative, and change the solution frequently.

3. Root cuttings of houseplants and garden plants to increase your collection or share with a friend.

4. Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade.

5. Apply fungicide to prevent and control black spot on roses.

6. Water newly planted trees and shrubs. Water deeply every seven to 10 days when rain is lacking.

7. Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia, lilac, pyracantha and weigela, by stem tip cuttings.

8. Remove faded flowers and seed pods on lilac and other spring-flowering shrubs.

9. Do not be alarmed at June drop of tree fruit. It is a natural thinning process for most trees to prevent excessive loads. Thin remaining fruit, if necessary, or prop up heavy branches to avoid breakage. Most fruit should be spaced 6 to 8 inches apart on a branch. Continue applications of home orchard fruit sprays to maintain problem-free fruit, if your trees managed to set fruit despite the earlier spring freezes.

10. Keep grass mowed regularly, but mow high to help protect the crown of the plant from heat stress. Lawn clippings, unless excessive, should be left on the lawn.

11. To keep lawn green and growing, water as needed to supply a total of 1-1.5 inches of water per week. If left unwatered, lawns will turn brown and become dormant during extended hot, dry spells, but will green up again when conditions are more favorable.

12. Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mid-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year’s harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.

13. Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture after soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corn cobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used.

14. Blanch (exclude light from) cauliflower when heads are just 2 inches in diameter. Tie leaves up and over the developing head.
Keep weeds controlled. They’re easier to pull when they are still young.

15. Start seeds of cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower for fall garden transplants.

16. Plan now for your Halloween pumpkin. Determine the days to harvest for the particular cultivar you want to plant (usually on the seed packet), and count backward to determine the proper planting date.

17. Harvest spring plantings of broccoli, cabbage and peas.

18. Remove cool-season plants, such as radish, spinach and lettuce, as they bolt, or form seed stalks, during hot summer weather.

19. Continue planting carrots, beans and sweet corn for successive harvests.

20. For staked tomatoes, remove suckers (branches that form where the leaf joins the stem) while they are 1 to 1.5 inches long to allow easier training.

21. Remove spent blooms of peony, iris, delphiniums and other flowers.

22. Pinch shoot tips of chrysanthemums, impatiens, petunias and coleus to promote bushier growth.

23. Remove tops of spring-flowering bulbs only after they have yellowed and withered.

24. Continue planting gladiolus for a succession of bloom.

26. Pick strawberries from the garden or a U-pick operation.

27. Protect ripening strawberries from birds by covering with netting.

28. Supplement natural rainfall to supply a total of 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week to the garden.

29. Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mid-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year’s harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.

30. Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture after soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corn cobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used.

31. Blanch (exclude light from) cauliflower when heads are just 2 inches in diameter. Tie leaves up and over the developing head.
Keep weeds controlled. They’re easier to pull when they are still young.

32. Start seeds of cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower for fall garden transplants.

33. Plan now for your Halloween pumpkin. Determine the days to harvest for the particular cultivar you want to plant (usually on the seed packet), and count backward to determine the proper planting date.

34. Harvest spring plantings of broccoli, cabbage and peas.

35. Remove cool-season plants, such as radish, spinach and lettuce, as they bolt, or form seed stalks, during hot summer weather. Continue planting carrots, beans and sweet corn for successive harvests.

36. For staked tomatoes, remove suckers (branches that form where the leaf joins the stem) while they are 1 to 1.5 inches long to allow easier training.

37. Remove spent blooms of peony, iris, delphiniums and other flowers. Pinch shoot tips of chrysanthemums, impatiens, petunias and coleus to promote bushier growth. Remove tops of spring-flowering bulbs only after they have yellowed and withered. Continue planting gladiolus for a succession of bloom.

38. Pick strawberries from the garden or a U-pick operation. Protect ripening strawberries from birds by covering with netting.

39. Supplement natural rainfall to supply a total of 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week to the garden.

- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer