Q. We have over 350 pine trees around us. We are losing 1 or 2 every year. They turn reddish brown and die. They have all their needles; they just die. Is there anything I can do to stop this? We spray for bugs every year, mostly for bagworms.
A. There are many different species of pine, each susceptible to a number of different diseases, insect pests, and environmental stresses that can lead to decline and eventual tree death. White pine (Pinus strobus) in particular is quite prone to relatively sudden death. This syndrome is so common that it is actually been given the name “White Pine Decline” by plant pathologists.
The initial signs that the tree is in trouble can be a bit subtle; typically the tree owner will report that the tree just suddenly died, almost overnight. But if you look closely, the initial symptoms of decline include paler green, perhaps even yellowish, needles that are a bit shorter than in previous years’ growth. The more recent years of twig growth are likely shorter than in the past. As summer heat and drought stress come on, the needles turn brown and the tree dies.
White Pine Decline is thought to be the result of a combination of factors, but the primary culprit is that the trees just are not well adapted to our soils and climate, despite the fact that they can put on relatively healthy, fast growth for their 10 ten years or so. They prefer light, well-drained soil and moderate temperatures. White pine does not tolerate wet feet, drought, high pH or extreme heat, all of which are common in Indiana.
In many cases, the pines are planted too close together when they are young trees so they may end up competing with one another, in addition to all the other stresses. If there is enough space to warrant replacing the trees, it is best to choose a better-adapted species rather than repeat with white pine.
Q. I have four Indiana Tulip trees. I got them expecting flowers. Now that they are quite large, I was told they never flower; they are just named that for the shape of the leaves. To my surprise, one tree had flowers shaped like tulips. They were green and yellow – and beautiful. Enclosed is a photo of one of the flowers. Can you tell me a little about this tree?
A. Also known as tulip poplar, tulipwood, yellow poplar and canoewood, the tuliptree is known botanically as Liriodendron tulipifera. Contrary to your being told that tuliptree never flowers, this tree was actually proclaimed the state flower of Indiana in 1923! It was then re-proclaimed the state tree of Indiana in 1931 and remains so today.
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Tuliptree’s rather-interesting yellow blossoms do remind you of tulips. However, they often go unnoticed until they drop from the tree. This is due to being held upright and high on the limbs of tall, mature trees. As some of the common names suggest, the lumber was used for canoes, log cabins and furniture.
Native to most of the eastern half of the United States, the tuliptree prefers rich, moist, well-drained, loamy soil. The tuliptree can reach as tall as 190 feet where it is allowed to thrive, but it is more likely to reach 70 feet in height as a mature landscape specimen.
Q. I have a trumpet vine (orange) planted 5 years ago in full sun, good soil. It has never bloomed. Why?
A. Although trumpet vine (trumpet creeper) is quite a vigorous vine, it can be a bit fussy when it comes to flowering. I get as many questions on how to kill this rampant vine as I do about why it won’t bloom. The plant thrives in infertile soil; it seems the best flowering specimens are those that are neglected and never fertilized or watered. Fertilizer applied to the planting bed or even to surrounding lawns could cause the vine to expend its resources producing massive foliage at the expense of flowers.
The plant flowers on new season’s growth so late spring or early summer pruning would remove the flower buds (winter or early spring pruning before new growth would be fine). Another possibility is that your plant was raised from seed and is still in a juvenile stage of development. It is not unusual for seedling plants to take 10 years or longer to become mature enough to flower.
Things to do in August:
Check trees and shrubs that have been planted in recent years for girdling damage by guy wires, burlap or ropes.
Don’t fertilize woody plants now. It stimulates late growth that will not have time to harden off properly before winter.
Hand-prune and destroy bagworms, fall webworms and tent caterpillars.
Pears are best ripened off the tree, so do not wait for the fruit to turn yellowish on the tree. Harvest pears when color of fruit changes–usually from a dark green to a lighter green–and when the fruit is easily twisted and removed from the spur.
Prune out and destroy the raspberry and blackberry canes that bore fruits this year. They will not produce fruit again next year, but they may harbor insect and disease organisms.
If weather turns dry, keep newly established plants well watered. New plants should receive 1 to 1.5 inches of water every week to 10 days.
Begin seeding new lawns or bare spots in established lawns in mid-August through mid-September.
Keep the garden well watered during dry weather and free of weeds, insects and disease.
Complete fall garden planting by direct-seeding carrots, beets, kohlrabi, kale and snap beans early this month. Lettuce, spinach, radishes and green onions can be planted later in August and early September. Don’t forget to thin seedlings to appropriate spacing as needed.
Harvest onions after the tops yellow and fall, then cure them in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. The necks should be free of moisture when fully cured in about a week’s time.
Harvest potatoes after the tops yellow and die. Potatoes also need to be cured before storage.
Pick beans, tomatoes, peppers and squash often to encourage further production.
Harvest watermelon when several factors indicate ripeness–the underside ground spot turns from whitish to creamy yellow; the tendril closest to the melon turns brown and shrivels; the rind loses its gloss and appears dull; and the melon produces a dull thud rather than a ringing sound when thumped.
Harvest sweet corn when kernels are plump and ooze a milky juice when punctured with your fingernail. If the liquid is watery, you’re too early; if the kernels are doughy, you’re too late.
Keep faded flowers pinched off bedding plants to promote further flowering and improve plant appearance.
Spade or till soil for fall bulb planting, and add a moderate amount of fertilizer.
- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer
