Q. During this past summer’s drought, crabgrass took over much of my yard. Is there any effective, cheap way now to get rid of it, or has it already seeded itself for the spring? Now that it’s almost winter and it has turned brown, would going out and manually pulling it up by the root do any good? What options do you recommend?
A. Crabgrass is an annual plant, meaning it only lives for one growing season. The plants flower and produce seed in July, then die at first frost. So there is not much point in pulling the plants out now. Unfortunately, crabgrass produces a lot of seed in summer that will then germinate next spring. Crabgrass is a really tough weed to completely eradicate, and it thrives in poor, sparse turf.
The best strategy is to prevent the crabgrass as much as possible. Good lawn care practices, including appropriate fertilizing, watering and mowing, will help the turf grass be more competitive. A pre-emergence herbicide applied in early spring before the crabgrass germinates can substantially reduce the population next season, you would need to apply by early April most years.
Q, My Concord grapes used to get ripe all at the same time. Now, the last two years, they don’t. They all get ripe so unevenly; some are green, some are ripe and some are over ripe or starting to rot on the same bunch of grapes. What is my problem?
A. Some grape-growers have experienced uneven ripening this year, particularly with their Concord grapes, and this seems to be an issue when the weather has been exceptionally warm. Some of the berries in the cluster remain sour, hard and green while others develop the purple color and soften during the ripening process. The green berries will be full-sized, but will not be sweet. For some reason, those berries never go through the increase in sugar and decrease in acids that commonly occurs during fruit ripening. It is not clearly understood why this phenomenon occurs, but hot weather is thought to be partly responsible. So let’s hope for better weather next year.
Things to do in December:
Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which indicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.
Extend the lives of holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, by placing them in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm or cold drafts.
Houseplants may not receive adequate light because days are short and gloomy. Move plants closer to windows, but avoid placing foliage against cold glass panes. Artificial lighting may be helpful. Because growth slows or stops in winter months, most plants will require less water and little, if any, fertilizer.
If you are forcing bulbs for the holidays, bring them into warmer temperatures after they have been sufficiently pre-cooled. Bulbs require a chilling period of about 10 to 12 weeks at 40 degrees F to initiate flower buds and establish root growth. Pre-cooled bulbs are available from many garden suppliers if you did not get yours cooled in time. Then, provide two to four weeks of warm temperature (60 degrees F), bright light and moderately moist soil to bring on flowers.
When shopping for a Christmas tree, check for green, flexible, firmly held needles and a sticky trunk base — both indicators of freshness. Make a fresh cut, and keep the cut end under water at all times.
Evergreens, except pines and spruce, can be trimmed now for a fresh supply of holiday greenery.
Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees, such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.
Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loads by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.
Protect broadleaves, evergreens or other tender landscape plants from excessive drying (desiccation) by winter sun and wind. Canvas, burlap or polyethylene plastic screens to the south and west protect the plants. Similarly, shield plants from salt spray on the street side.
Provide winter protection for roses by mounding soil approximately 12 inches high to insulate the graft union, after plants are dormant and temperatures are cold. Additional organic mulch, such as straw compost or chopped leaves, can be placed on top.
To protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulbs, mulch with straw, chopped leaves or other organic material after plants become dormant.
Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and out of the reach of children, pets and unsuspecting adults.
Once the plants are completely dormant and temperatures are consistently below freezing, then the winter mulch can be applied to protect strawberries and other tender perennials. In most cases, 2-4 inches of organic material, such as straw, pine needles, hay or bark chips, will provide adequate protection.
Check produce and tender bulbs in storage, and discard any that show signs of decay, such as mold or softening. Shriveling indicates insufficient relative humidity.
Clean up dead plant materials, synthetic mulch and other debris in the vegetable garden, as well as in the flowerbeds, rose beds and orchards.
Order seed catalogs, and make notes for next year’s garden.
- Submitted by Janice Kirchenbauer
